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From time to time I’ll be addressing client questions that are frequently asked and some questions that are quite obscure. Some questions are mortgage related, some are real estate related, and some are Denver related. My answers won’t be the canned answers you see on most mortgage sites.

Q: “How do I get the best rate?”

A: Let’s assume the following:

• you’re asking about a mortgage on a single family house that’s considered your primary residence
• you’re asking about a first mortgage without a second mortgage
• you have either 20% equity (refinance) or you’re putting a 20% down payment (purchase)
• you have credit scores over 720
• you don’t have any late payments of any kind
• you have assets i.e. money in a checking account, savings account, 401k, mutual funds and/or stocks at established financial institution(s)
• you have statements from the aforementioned financial institution(s)
• you’ve been in the same line of work for quite some time for the same company
• you have a limited amount of debt
• your debt to income ratio is far below the 40% threshold

If you fit this profile you’ll get the best rates because mortgage institutions view this profile as little to no risk. These loans are typically run through an automated underwriting program i.e. computer software that runs an algorerithm (software geek joke) and gives you a loan approval in seconds. Even if you don’t fit this profile 100%, the automated underwriting program may still grant you an approval in seconds. Your history of paying debt (credit score), capacity to pay the loan (income/assets), and the collateral backing the debt (property) all plays a role in getting the best rate.

Mark Twain’s quote “Lies, damn lies, and statistics.” is apropos when discussing the real estate market. Real estate statistics for sales are skewed due to the growth in real estate the past five years. Fueled mostly by low interest rates and overly aggressive loan programs, people of all shapes and sizes bought homes. As rates have gone up and the those loan programs have been deemed “too risky” the growth has slowed. However, the statistics will show that the Denver Real Estate market tanked.

To put things in perspective the real estate market is very similar to the career of Denver Bronco Jake Plummer. Jake has been a steady player who never put up gaudy statistics. The last several years his statistics were better than ever as Jake played at an elite level. This year his play dropped. But did it? On average he throws 15 touchdowns and 15 interceptions every season and this season, if he wasn’t pulled for Jay Cutler, he was set to meet those mediocre statistics.

A thorough statistical analysis should take into account the overall average over time. Recently I came across a blog called the Bubble Buster which presents a complete Real Estate analysis of major cities. The analysis takes history into account. Today they released their Denver real estate analysis:

The Denver economy is continuing its steady recovery following the bursting of the tech bubble. The past thirty years have seen three real price cycles and the beginning of a fourth in Denver. Including one cycle of TWELVE years in which nominal growth was 32.6%, yet real growth was negative 29.4%. Market cycle time periods have varied from the downturn cycle of twelve years to the prior growth cycle of fourteen years.

What I truly appreciate about this analysis is that it takes into account the real estate growth in Denver during the past quarter, four quarters, year, five years and historical average. According to this analysis, Denver has seen an appreciation of .1% in the last quarter, 2.3% past four quarters , 4.7% last year 2005, 17.6% last five years and 6.3% historically.

The analysis is further broken down:

• Summary

Recent declines in sales activity have increased the number of homes on the market. Further sales declines should be expected due to current local market psychology. However, significant price declines are unlikely as the mortgage debt servicing cost has remained steady.

• Recent History

The past five years have seen fair nominal and real price growth. The Denver mortgage-debt-to-income ratio has remained steady throughout the past five years despite a national increase, indicating there should be little to no concern about an Denver market bubble. Consequently, nominal and real prices should be expected to continue to grow at near historic levels if mortgage rates remain at current levels.

• Price Charts
• Peaks and Troughs

In order to most accurately determine prior market price cycles one must remove the effects of inflation and look at real historical prices. The past thirty years have seen three real price cycles and the beginning of a fourth in Denver. Including one cycle of twelve years in which nominal growth was 32.6%, yet real growth was negative 29.4%. Market cycle time periods have varied from the downturn cycle of twelve years to the prior growth cycle of fourteen years.

• Forecasts

Accurately projecting local prices is a challenging task because so many factors play a part in home prices. Mortgage rates, inflation, job growth, median income, legislation, migration patterns and market psychology are just a few. Additionally, real estate markets rarely have periods in which they achieve average historical growth. Rather, real estate markets have periods of tremendous growth followed by market decline. Consequently, the tables and charts below present three likely scenarios, rather than one definite path.

Good stuff!

Buying a home vs. renting is a big decision that takes careful consideration, as most mortgage consultants will agree. But the rewards of home ownership are great. For many years, purchasing real estate has been considered an extremely profitable investment. It is an achievement that offers a sense of pride, financial stability and potential tax advantages.

Yes, there are certain responsibilities associated with owning a home. Landlords will often argue the benefits of renting, and for obvious reason. If you are renting, you’re helping them make their mortgage payment.

The numbers are staggering if you look at it this way. If you are paying $1,000 per month for an apartment, and you know your rent will increase 5% every year, then over the next five years you will pay your landlord $66,309. If you are currently renting a house, you may be paying much more than that each month. Either way, you gain no equity by shelling out this monthly housing expense and you certainly won’t benefit when the property value goes up!

However, if you were to purchase your own home or condominium, you would be well on your way toward building equity within that same five-year period. By choosing a fixed-rate loan program, you can have the comfort of knowing that your monthly mortgage payment will never go up. In fact, you would have the option of refinancing to a lower interest rate at some point in the future should interest rates drop, and this would cause your monthly mortgage commitment to go down.

In addition to building equity, there are tax advantages that come into play with home ownership. Depending on your tax bracket, owning a home is often less expensive than renting after taxes. Interest payments on a mortgage below $1 million are tax-deductible, and your mortgage consultant should help you evaluate the tax advantages of various loan scenarios, and share this information with your tax consultant to glean feedback on your behalf.

To find the loan program that is right for you, your mortgage consultant will need to evaluate your monthly household income, current assets and savings, as well as any monthly obligations you may have for credit card payments, car payments, child support, etc. These prequalification factors, along with the report of your credit score, will determine how much house you can afford and what interest rate you will pay for financing. It is also important to let your mortgage consultant know what your future goals are, because this will help narrow down which loan option is the best fit for your long-term needs.

There are many different types of loan programs available, including “low” and “no” down payment mortgage programs. These types of programs require the borrower to provide less than 3 percent of the loan amount as down payment. FHA lenders rule that the mortgage payment, including principal, interest, taxes and insurance (PITI) should not exceed 31 percent of your gross income, and the PITI plus other long-term debt (car payments, etc.) should not exceed 43 percent of your gross income.

Housing is an expense that takes a big bite out of the monthly budget. If you are a renter and feel that “home” is more than just someplace to hang your hat, think about the advantages of purchasing real estate. It may be time to take the step into building your personal net worth as a home owner.

Consumers interested in purchasing or refinancing a home will pay an interest rate based on current market conditions and their ability to pay back the loan. The borrower’s income and debt ratios are taken into consideration by the lender, as well as the predictability factor provided by credit scoring. It’s important to have a mortgage professional in your corner that has a keen eye for solutions to improving credit scores in an effort to get the best interest rate possible.

Interest rates associated with various loan programs are broken down into schedules based on credit score ratings. While each lender has its own guidelines, it’s safe to assume that as the consumer’s credit score goes down, interest rates will go up.

A borrower with an outstanding credit rating will get what is called an A-paper loan. This type of borrower is rewarded with a lower interest rate because they have a proven track record of using credit sensibly and paying their bills on time.

Loans designed for consumers with less-than-perfect credit – sometimes referred to as “sub-prime” – can range anywhere from A-minus, B-paper, C-paper or D-paper loans.

If you have already taken out a mortgage loan with a higher interest rate because your credit score was a little under par, you will really appreciate the value in doing a little work to improve your credit score. Refinancing from a D-paper loan to a B-paper classification can save literally thousands of dollars in financing fees over time, even though the B-paper loan is still considered sub-prime.

A qualified mortgage consultant will guide you through the nuances of the process of improving your credit score to refinance and save money. First and foremost, he or she will want to review the terms of the existing mortgage loan to determine if you have a pre-payment penalty clause written into your contract. In general terms, that means that if you sell the home or try to refinance before the pre-payment penalty expires and you have not already paid off 20 percent of the original loan amount, you will most likely have to pay a 3 percent fee back to the lender to compensate for the high risk and high costs incurred to provide that financing.

Next, you should obtain free copies of your credit reports from www.annualcreditreport.com and start working on improving the credit score six months prior to the expiration date on your existing pre-payment penalty.

There are five factors that make up the credit score and your mortgage consultant can coach you through some basic strategies to improve your credit score. This means very conservative use of credit cards, paying off debt as much as possible and not applying for additional credit cards unless you will benefit from such action. You will want to verify that negative items you have paid off are being removed from your credit report, and that good credit history is being reported to all three bureaus. You’ll also want to dispute any errors that appear on your credit reports and seek to have those removed entirely.

Once your credit score improves, it’s time to refinance at a better interest rate. Your mortgage professional should look for a program that carries no more than a two-year prepayment penalty so you can continue to refinance as your credit score increases. You can repeat this process until you reach A-paper status and secure the best interest rate available.

This is a strategy that also works well for first time home buyers who do not have enough credit history under their belt to get an A-paper loan at the time of purchase. The important thing is to work with a mortgage consultant who can give you a road map to follow and a strategy for success in building personal wealth.

While many borrowers are concerned with what they need to do in order to qualify for a mortgage, there are also a number of things that borrowers should not do once approved for a loan.

In addition it’s a good idea to give yourself a couple of extra days if possible to schedule movers, landscaping companies or and other repairs for the new house. This will give you extra time to get the closing completed and the transaction funded. If you schedule movers or other companies the same day as closing or even the day after you might be in for a stressful situation if for any reason the closing is delayed.

Always consult with your mortgage professional when there is a question regarding any of this because it can cost you your home loan.

After applying for a mortgage do not let anyone pull your credit or apply for any new credit at all. Try to keep everything the same as far as credit goes as when you where initially pre-approved unless told different by your loan officer.

Do not ignore to tell your mortgage broker about any material changes in the purchase agreement you and the seller come to agree upon after the mortgage process has begun. A slightly lower sale price can alter the loan-to-value ratio and requires re-submission of loan documents. Your mortgage broker and lender have to be made aware if any addendum is later attached to the purchase contract.

After applying for a mortgage be sure to advise your loan officer to any changes in your marital status or name changes. This will help you avoid problems with the final closing documents and/or title problems.

Be certain not to lease a car or allow a car dealer to “pre-qualify” you for a car lease or loan. It doesn’t matter whether or not the car is new or used, because either way this would fall under the category of taking on new debt, and is a very common reason for individuals, particularly those making purchases for the first time, run into complications with their mortgage application process after the fact. If you have any need to make any further applications for substantial credit, please give us a call.

Do not take on new debt. The temptation is strong. There are so many big purchases that people want to make in connection with a move: appliances, window treatments, furniture, etc. When you add to this the fact that, today, everyone offers easy terms and no money down—well, why not just do it? Answer: because you will change what the mortgage industry calls your “debt-to-income ratios” (the relationship of your income to your debt).

Do not change jobs. If at all possible, try not to make a career move during the time between your mortgage application and the closing on the home you are purchasing. But, you ask, “What if it’s a BETTER job, for MORE money, in a DIFFERENT field?” Still, try and wait until AFTER closing. One of the factors mortgage companies consider is length of present employment; they are partial to stability. At the very least, changing jobs initiates the need for more paperwork, and may delay your closing.

Do not pack too soon. Well, go ahead and pack your clothes and dishes. But do not pack your bank statements, tax returns, or other important paperwork. Most especially, do not pack your checkbook! More than one buyer has had closing delayed while a friend or relative hurried over with additional funds because the checkbook was in the moving van.

Do not lease a new car. This should go under the general heading of “no new debt.” It is highlighted here because, for some strange reason, many buyers do run right out and lease a new car during the time between mortgage application and closing! As with any debt, this will change your “debt-to-income ratios” and may cause you not to qualify for your mortgage.

Do not stop making your regular monthly payments after applying for a mortgage. Borrowers refinancing their home to payoff other debts sometimes stop making their regular monthly payments because they are going to payoff the debt. This can cause problems during the loan process because not making payments on time may hurt your credit rating. Lower credit scores may cause your interest rate to go up or result in you being denied credit.

Once you apply for a mortgage to refinance or for a home purchase your job is not done. Be involved, don’t just wait for the call to schedule the closing. Check with your mortgage broker, find out what is going on with your loan, talk to your realtor make sure everything you want done is getting done. Be proactive not reactive, don’t wait for a problem then rush to solve it, work to prevent any issues form happening in the first place.

Do not pay off any old collection accounts on your credit report unless you were specifically told to do so by your mortgage professional. Paying off old collection debt will often signal to the credit reporting agencies that there is new activity on an negative entry and actually lower your credit score.

Before lenders lend money, they need to be assured that the funds will be repaid. In other words, is the prospective borrower creditworthy? To find out, they ask for various types of information.

Sub-prime lenders understand you may have come upon some hard times in the past and will look at your more recent credit history.

Lenders look at the risk that you will default on the loan, based on several factors. Those include credit score, history of paying your mortgage or rent on time, debt-to-income ratio, occupancy type (primary residence, second home or investment property), property type (single-family, 2-unit, condo), percentage of the property’s value you want to borrow (60%, 70% 80% 100%), and work history, among others.

Lenders will look at an applicants past credit history, income and the value of collateral being used to secure the mortgage. The lenders will compare this information to their guidelines to determine if the applicant is a good credit risk.

With regards to repayment capability, most banks prefer that a borrower has total debt obligations of less than 45% of gross income. Total debt include any monthly obligations the borrower has, including the proposed mortgage payment, property tax, homeowner insurance, automobile financing, credit card installments, alimony, etc. Utility and food costs are not considered debts and are not included in the Debt-to-Income ratio. Some non-prime mortgage lenders allow a Debt-to-Income ratio of up to 55%.

Lenders will look for job stability, credit worthiness, disposable income, liquid assets, debt to income ratios and loan to value ratios among many other things. Sometimes a borrower can be deficient or weak in one of the above mentioned areas but make up for it in others to still be considered for the financing desired. Lenders don’t typically want to see a lot of job changing or career changing happening. Also, obviously the better the credit the better the chance the lender will be repaid on the debt. Disposable income is how much income is left over after you have paid all of your monthly obligations. Debt to income is a ratio that is calculated based off of how much you make divided by how much your obligations are and LTV (loan to value is simply how much of a mortgage you are borrowing compared to how much your home is valued at. These are all very important items that a lender looks at as a part of your whole package.

Reserves is another factor that lenders want to see. Reserves are simply how much liquid cash you have in the bank to make payments with. If you are a first time home buyer the reserves can be anywhere from 2 -6 months worth of PITI (Principle, Interest, Taxes and Insurance). Various lenders will have different guidelines so be sure to ask your Mortgage Professional how much cash you will need to have in reserves.

Your credit worthiness will affect the interest rate and the number of programs that are available to you.

A HELOC is a home equity line of credit.

This type of loan is basically a line of credit secured by a second mortgage on a property. You can borrow a much as you need as long as you do not exceed the maximum loan amount. You pay interest on the outstanding loan balance and not the entire line of credit.

A Home Equity Line of Credit is an open ended mortgage, meaning a homeowner can withdraw and repay as often as he likes, up to the available credit limit. A HELOC works much like a credit card account in that respect. It differs from a credit card account in that a credit card account is an unsecured loan, whereas a HELOC is secured by the homeowner’s property.

Usually, whenever you have a mortgage that is above 80% Loan TO Value, then the difference above 80% is usually a HELOC loan. For example, if you need 95% Loan To Value then your 1st mortgage will be at 80% Loan To Value and at a lower rate and the remaining 15% will be considered a 2nd mortgage and be a HELOC.

A HELOC (home equity line of credit) is an excellent financing tool, for some borrowers. A HELOC is essentially a line of credit secured by a mortgage or deed of trust on your home. You only pay interest on the amounts you borrow on the HELOC. If you don’t use any of the line of credit, then you don’t make any monthly payments. You can draw from the HELOC by writing checks issued to you by the lender. Usually a HELOC is considered a second lien on your property.

It’s important to be careful with HELOC’s. As any other type of credit they have a good use but one can end up spending too much with this line of credit. If you are paying off other debts such as credit cards ampersand autos it might make sense to get a standard fixed rate 2nd mortgage where you get the lump sum at closing to pay off all debts and then you pay on that mortgage along with your first until it’s paid off. You won’t have the ability to pull money whenever you think you need it. On the flip side of that, if you have income that comes in large quantities and is sporadic or not stable. This type of loan might be used as a cushion for the times in-between the checks.

A HELOC is a far superior debt device than using a credit card or financing a car/boat/ RV purchase. One of the many advantages to using a HELOC is that the interest expense is tax deductible. Essentially you are saving 25-35% on every interest dollar as it is deducted from your income when you do your year end tax preparations.

Many HELOCS today offer a credit card which can be used at your favorite stores and restaurants.

Usually the rate on the Heloc is the prime rate plus a margin.

A HELOC is traditionally based on the prime rate and a margin is added to reflect the true rate to be paid by the borrower. HELOC’s may offer a initial lower rate (Teaser rate) for a specific time period. When the defined time period has expired the rate will adjust to prime + margin.

HELOC(s) or Home Equity Line(s) of Credit are very popularly used as the “20″ in an “80-20″ or 80/20 piggyback mortgage strategy.

A Home Equity Line of Credit can also be used to purchase the property or as a first lien on the property. The HELOC can be used to payoff or consolidate debt, personal use, or just to have.

A home equity line is a revolving credit line tied to the equity in your home. Most home equity lines use the prime rate as a base for setting interest rates. For example, you hear lenders describe rates as prime + zero or prime + 1. This means the borrower will pay monthly interest according to the Prime Rate (lets use an example prime rate of 5.00%) plus a margin. In this case, prime + zero would equal an interest rate of 5.00%, or in the case of prime + one it would be 6.00%. Additionally, most home equity lines have interest only payments.

Capacity = Willingness and ability to pay back the loan Credit = Payment history and current balances; willingness to repay Character = Job stability and or time in property Collateral = Property or what the lending institution will be left with if the borrower fails to pay.

Another one of the C’s that is often over looked is Cash to Close. Liquid assets readily available to pay the down payment, closing costs, and prepaid items of a mortgage transaction.

Credit is one of the most important things a borrower must be aware of when buying a new home. The credit report is a representation of how you pay your bills. If you have great credit. A Bank is willing to finance up to 106% . Which would allow a person to purchase a house with no money down.

Character – from the standpoint of underwriting, lenders are usually looking for a minimum or two years work history at the same company. If you have changed companies in the past two years, but are in the same line of work, as long as your income has stayed the same or increased lenders will accept that. The longer you have been employed with the same company and in the same line of work the better off you are and the more lenient the lender may be on other factors.

Knowing what lenders are looking for and planning to provide them what they need in order to fund your loan is the best way to make sure you can get the best loan for you.

From an underwriting perspective, if a loan package is significantly strong in one of the “C” areas, deficiencies in another “C” can be given less weight. Example, if a borrower is putting down a large down payment the Collateral would be stronger so a weaker credit score might be tolerated.

Credit - Although there are a few programs that are not credit score driven, by far you will be able to secure a better rate if your credit rating is good. Payment history plays a big part in your credit score and this shows the lender your track record of payments to your creditors. It’s more probable that you will pay your loan on time if you pay your other bills on time. If you have high balances on your other debt such as credit cards and automobiles this can affect your Debt-to-income (DTI) ratio and put you at more risk in the eyes of the lender. The reason good credit scores are important is because you have the ability with good scores vs. bad scores to qualify for no income verification or no documentation loans.

Collateral-From the standpoint of loan underwriting, the higher the stake a homeowner has in the property, the less likely he would default on the mortgage. Statistics have shown that if homeowners have 20% or more in equity in their homes, lenders are less likely to suffer a loss as a result of default. For home buyers who have less than 20% to put down as down payment, many banks are willing to grant them loans as long as these home buyers have other compensating factors, such as a better than average credit profile, or a low debt to income ratio. As a safety measure, most banks require home buyers putting down less than 20% to carry Private Mortgage Insurance, which insures the banks against loss due to homeowner default.

Capacity - Capacity goes hand and hand with credit. When a lender reviews your credit there are 2 major factors they are looking at aside from credit scores. One is your DTI or Debt-to-income ratio and the other is your credit history. Both of these will determine your capacity to repay the loan or your risk to the lender.

Capacity also refers to the amount of debts you can realistically pay given your income. Creditors look at how long you’ve been on your job, your income level and the likelihood that it will increase over time. They also look to see that you’re in a stable job or at least a stable job industry. It’s important when you fill out a credit application to make your job sound stable, high-level and even” professional.” Are you a secretary or are you an executive secretary or the office manager? Finally, creditors examine your existing credit relationships, such as credit cards, bank loans and mortgages. They want to know your credit limits (you may be denied additional credit if you already have a lot of open credit lines), your current credit balances, how long you’ve had each account and your payment history—whether you pay late or on time.

Should you pay “points” to get a better rate? Do you plan on keeping your loan for a while? Then it may make sense to “buy” a lower interest rate by paying one or more “points.” Even if you’re unsure of how long you plan to keep your mortgage before you move or refinance, paying points now for a lower rate may make sense. For example, do you have a high-paying job now but you think you might change careers in the next few years? Talk it over with a qualified Mortgage Planner. Its part of a Mortgage Planners job to help you find the right loan for your means and goals.

If you look at a comparison of 2 different loan programs, one with points and one without points, laid out by a mortgage professional, you will be able to see your total cost of the loan for each program. The most important factor here is the amount of time you plan to hold this property before refinancing or selling. This will help you make the decision rather quickly.

For borrowers with ample cash and low return on investment for their cash, paying additional points to buy down an interest rate may be a good idea. One should always consult with a loan officer to analyze the cost of the buy-down and the amount saved with the lower buy-down rate over the life of the loan. A knowledgeable loan officer can show a homeowner the number of years the homeowner needs to keep the loan in order to recoup the cost of the buy-down, and thereby allowing the homeowner to make an informed decision.

Paying points may decrease your debt to income ratio

Paying points to get a lower rate when refinancing into a long term fixed mortgage often makes good sense. The points can normally be financed into the loan instead of paid out of pocket. Over the long haul, money saved from the lower interest rate will more than make up for the principal added by the points.

When you pay “points,” you pay interest in a lump sum upfront to get a lower rate on your fixed rate mortgage. Each point costs 1% of the mortgage amount. The more points you pay, the lower your mortgage rate. So, which is the best for you? More points and a lower rate? Or fewer points and higher rate? To decide, you need to consider: (1) Whether you can afford to make the upfront payment now for points. (2) The length of time expect to have the mortgage. The longer you plan to have your mortgage, the more it makes sense to pay for points now because you’ll have a long time to benefit from the lower rate.

There are basically two types of buy-downs, a permanent buy-down and a temporary buy-down. A permanent buy-down entitles the homeowner to a lower interest rate for the life of the loan. A temporary buy-down gives the borrower a lower interest rate for the first two or three years of the loan term. A common temporary buy-down is the “2-1 Buy-Down”, which gives the homeowner a discounted rate of 2% below his mortgage note rate in the first year of the loan, 1% below the qualified note rate in the second year, and the note rate for years 3 to 30. For example, consider a borrower qualifying for a 30-year fixed rate mortgage of $200,000 at 7% interest rate, with the option of a 2-1 Buy-Down that costs 2.25 points, without the buy-down, the borrower’s monthly payment would be $1,330 for the life of the loan. With the 2-1 buy-down, at the cost of $4,500 (2.25 points = 2.25% of the loan amount), the borrower interest rate for the first year is 5% (2% below qualified note rate of 7%) and the monthly payment for the first year is $1,074, 6% (1% below note rate) and a monthly payment of $1,199 for the second year, and 7% (qualified rate) and monthly payments of $1,330 for the remainder of the loan term. Another common Temporary Buy-Down is the 3-2-1 Buy-Down, which works very much like the 2-1 Buy-Down, except in that it gives the borrower 3% below qualified rate in the first year, 2% below in the second year, 3% below in the third, and the normal note rate for the rest of the loan term.

When deciding weather or not to pay points to get a lower rate you should also look at your “break even point”. One point is equal to 1% of your loan amount. If paying that extra point lowers your rate then your savings are in a lower monthly payment. The break-even point is the amount of time it takes for that monthly savings to exceed the total initial investment of the point. When comparing different loan scenarios and options with your mortgage broker, have them calculate your break-even time for each scenario. You want the break-even point to be shorter than the amount of time you plan to spend in that mortgage (if you plan to sell or refinance in the future)

Points are normally tax deductible whether you or the seller actually pay for them. Points on a refinance are not deductible in the same way. On a refinance you normally have to spread your deduction out over the amortization of your loan (check with your tax advisor).

If you are tight on funds for closing opting for a loan with the lowest upfront cost and no discount points may cost may be right for you. Over the life of the loan you may be paying out more money however enabling you to provide for your families immediate needs.

In the mortgage business, the word “reserves” has more than one meaning. It can refer to the monies (assets) required by the lending bank - to be on hand in the borrowers deposit accounts at the time the loan closes.

The other form of “reserves” in a mortgage transaction are those monies required by the lender to go in escrow, if one is created.

Although proceeds from the sale of your previous home are not technically “seasoned”, they may be used for the down payment of a new purchase, as well as the necessary closing reserves.

Many banks do not consider state controlled retirement funds when using borrowers deposit records to determine how much cash reserves they have. This is because many state controlled retirement funds are inaccessible to their contributors.

Reserves are assets that a home buyer has after settlement. It is one of four underwriting criteria, as with credit, income, and loan-to-value ratio. Most banks require borrowers to have 3 to 6 months worth of housing expenses in reserve after closing. Reserves do not have to be liquid. They can be in the form non-liquid investments such as stock securities, bonds, retirement funds, etc.

A Verification of Deposits (VOD) is often used to show both source and seasoning of reserves or assets. This is a form that is filled out and signed by an official of the depositing institution that verifies such things as the current balance, daily deposit average, account numbers and other information.

When a lender is asking for seasoning or reserves on assets, this usually is referring to liquid assets such as checking and savings. The lender uses the borrower’s assets as a indicator for measuring the borrower’s ability to repay a loan. The assets also show the borrowers pattern of savings and ability to support financial obligations.

Most lenders want a borrower’s reserves to be seasoned for a minimum of 60 days. Seasoned means that they must show proof that they have had this money for at least 60 days. A lender doesn’t want to see that a borrower just had a large amount of money deposited into their account just recently, or they will require proof of where the money came from along with a letter of explanation. This safeguards the lender that the borrower has not incurred a new debt or loan that needs to be calculated into their debt to income ratio.

Many wonder why reserves are sometimes required. This gives the lender more sense of security when lending you the money for your home. If any life changing situations should occur, and you have 6-12 months of “reserves” available, you are likely to use these funds to make your payments in order to keep your house. This makes you less of a risk in the lenders eyes.

With retirement accounts you may be required to contact your human resource department to get a statement explaining how readily available these accounts would be and what the process for taking any money out would be.

Though a borrowers 401k accounts are used to show these reserves, the money in the 401k account is not actually drawn out it is simply shown to be available.

Fannie Mae continues to tighten up approval guidelines. By putting accurate reserves on your 1003, you actually will receive LESS DOCUMENTATION requirements! Most often, Fannie will only require verification of some of the funds listed, not all (for example, borrowers may have checking, savings, and retirement totaling $12,500, but D.U. findings may need NONE verified, or perhaps only $500 verified…then you do not need to send in all asset verifications, just the $500)Remember - every little bit helps! Checking Accounts count at 100% of balance (recent large deposits may need to be explained)Savings Accounts count at 100% of balance (recent large deposits may need to be explained)Stocks / Mutual Funds count at 100% of balance401k / IRA count at 70% of vested balance Cash balance for life insurance policies count at 100% of cash balance Most other retirement accounts may not count, including pensions, PERA accounts, etc.

You can usually count the cash value of a life insurance policy as well.

Other sites: Mortgage Broker | Negative Amortization | Fixed-rate mortgage | Delinquency | Increasing your homes value | MIP | Stated Income Loan | What not to do after you apply for a Mortgage | Quick Closing | Tips for lowering your homeowners insurance| Pay Option Arm Calculator

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